5.02.2018

Dispatch from Colorado Springs: You're in Luck



During the last season of Top Chef, which took place in Colorado, a dude named Brother Luck impressed audiences and the likes of Tom Colicchio with his easy-going nature and his homey, but modern food. Rather than torture ingredients into submission, Brother was cooking rustic, accessible cuisine, and the judges ate it up.



Is it any surprise that I just had to check his restaurant out when I was in Colorado Springs recently for work? If you've been reading BHS for any length of time, you'll know the answer is no.






The restaurant is on the small side, and the decor is modern, but spare. All the better to enjoy the excellent service and absolutely wonderful food. Luck has the menu divided up into four tasting choices: the hunter, the gatherer, the fisherman, and the farmer. You can let one of those take you on a tasting journey, or mix and match the courses to create your own experience. We did the latter, and I began my meal with the stick icky Brussels.





This starter was glorious: earthy brussells sprouts caramelized and further sweetened with honey, then pointed up with orange juice. Marcona almonds added crunch and a creamy flavor to the dish.


My colleague Brandee had a gorgeous poblano cheddar soup for her appetizer. The layered flavors in the this dish unfurled across your tongue with each spoonful, with chile, aged cheese, and aromatics adding complexity and flavor.
 




Here's a poem I wrote: tequila shrimp and grits. Pretty, right? It tasted even better than it sounds. Plus, there was a soft cooked egg on top, so its runny yolk could meld with the roasted garlic grits and chile oil to create magic. And those charred lines on the shrimp? Caramelized seafood sweetness. Yeah. This was my favorite dish of the night. Incredibly delicious.









When my guajillo pork shank came to the table, the smell instantly transported me to my grandmother's kitchen. Not because of the guajillo chile, surely, as those were unavailable in 1980s Northern New York. But there was a dark, rich, coffee aroma wafting off the dish, which, mixed with braised pork, reminded me of my beloved grandmother, Muriel. She was a fabulous cook. I didn't know how I would feel about beans with braised pork, but these creamy Anasazi beans, in a tomato and ham hock broth, were homey and fabulous, with just a faint hint of smokey richness.








The desserts maintained the excellence established during the savory portions of our meal. Brandee's s'more was drenched tableside in chocolate ganache, to delicious effect. My stout caramel cheesecake was rich and creamy, but saved from over-sweetness by goat cheese and golden raisins. The oatmeal crust provided a pleasing textural contrast.







Our desserts took a while to arrive - the place was packed! So Steve, who had been refilling our glasses all night, but who actually is Brother's sommelier, brought us treats: truly special madeira and tawny port to complement our desserts. Both added complexity and depth to our dessert experience and chatting with Steve brought us closer to the understanding just how special this place is.




On a trip to the ladies', Brandee noticed a chef's table in the kitchen. If we're back in Co. Springs next year, we may be bringing our entire team to enjoy a night out at this Lucky table. I highly recommend this gem if you've got some time in the Springs coming up - it was the best meal of the trip, hands down.


Needing a place to stay in CS? The Broadmoor is amazing, but I have to recommend the Garden of the Gods Club and Resort, which has huge rooms with double sinks and gorgeous balconies with this view:


It is breathtaking country out here. Lots of Ubers, stunning views, arid climate, and I managed to avoid seeing any snakes during my trip. What more could a hungry ask for? My personality is big; my hunger is bigger!


Four by Brother Luck Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato 



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